We often get asked by both clients and people looking for some "free" information how easy is it to climb the highest peak in North Africa - Jebel Toubkal 4167m.

Well like a lot of questions relating to Morocco the answer is "it depends"! But lets give some guidelines for you all.

1. Well first of all it's a 4000m peak so you will feel the altitude if you go too quick. The only safeguard if you can call it that, is that the Toubkal refuges are around or under 3200m so you can sleep there without feeling major affects of AMS. Safe absolute minimum times of ascent are 3 days out and back from Marrakech - 4 days better to allow for an acclimatisation peak to be climbed.
2. The fitter you are obviously the better and the easier for yourself. If you are not used to 6-7 hour days in the mountains and you are trying to climb Toubkal in 3 days or even less round trip from Marrakech then you will suffer! Be kind to yourself and get some walking in before you embark on this!
3. "Winter" is really end of November to mid April +/- 2 weeks both sides. This means that during this time you will either have to carry all your own equipment and food up to the refuge or engage porters as mules will only go as far as the snowline which in mid-winter is down at Sidi Chamharouch and sometimes lower.
4. At the refuge you either have to cook your own food or pay someone up at the refuge to this for you (or you may have arranged with a local guide in Imlil or professional mountaineering company like ours to sort this out for you in advance). Please note that in winter there is NO general food stock at the refuges - you are responsible one way or the other to get it there!
5. There are now 2 refuges below Toubkal. One is owned by the Club Alpin Francais and the other (newer) one is privately owned by a local businessman. This new one is called the Mouflon (if you have a choice stay at this one!)
   
   All of the comments below are based on non-winter ascents!
6. The normal un-acclimatised but reasonably mountain fit individual will take 5-6 hours walking from Imlil (1750m) to the refuges (around 3200m). The return leg down will take 4 hours or less.
7. There are 2 frequented routes from the refuges. The standard very frequented South Cwm route (prominent right-hand valley in photo) and the slightly longer, steeper & less frequented  North Cwm route (prominent left-hand valley in photo). Approx 90% or more ascents are made by South Cwm route. I have lost count of the number of days I have guided the North Cwm route with no other parties present yet on arriving at the summit it could be like any popular Alpine summit in terms of numbers! Local "guides" contracted in Imlil are often very loath to take the North Cwm route as it is longer and steeper.
8. In terms of times of ascent/descent (round trip out and back from the refuges) for the South Cwm is anywhere 5-8 hours depending on fitness and peoples abilities to scree-run!
   North Cwm route up and South Cwm route down (i.e. a traverse of the peak) is usually anywhere 6-9 hours.
9. Both routes have a steep start from the refuge - the North Cwm route steepest of all. Both routes exit onto the relevant col (South Cwm - South Col; North Cwm - North Col) before the climber is required to ascend the relevant ridge to the summit. The North Ridge is steeper and requires easy scrambling. The South Ridge can be avoided however by traversing below it if required.
10. Both routes have well marked tracks - the South Cwm route has a myriad of tracks near the top!
11. If it is windy or otherwise inclement it is best to stick with the crowd and do the South Cwm/South Col/South Ridge route. Do not stick to the ridgeline proper if it is very windy as you will definitely feel exposed! Traverse on the left hand side (as you ascend) where it is safer.
12. As with all mountains, you should wear proper mountain boots, have a rucsac with the usual safety bits and pieces (spare food / water / anorak etc) and be mountain aware! Turn back if in doubt about things, your breathing, the weather etc......