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TWO SIDES OF A MOUNTAIN

Tues, 14 Oct 2008

Having read a blog article on Imlil earlier to-day, we thought we would put some reality into the equation and also introduce readers to the other (south) side of Toubkal, the highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains.

Firstly for those of you not overly familiar with the geography of the region, just click on this link and a map should open up for you in a new window/tab. 

Toubkal massif from the south side

Imlil is the main starting point for trips to Toubkal. It's twin if you like on the south side is Amsouzart. Although as the Lammergeier flies it is barely 16km (10 miles) between these 2 points, it can take around 5 hours drive and a few hundred km's to get around to the south side from the north by road and then dirt-track. Herein lies the reason for Imlil's "success" over Amsouzart - it's proximity to Marrakech. Only last week this was re-emphasised to us when we met people who had left London Gatwick that particular morning on the EasyJet flight to Marrakech and were having sitting down to lunch on the roof of the kasbah in Imlil looking onto Toubkal's stunning north face! 

Imlil main streetProximity and popularity demand a price. The price Imlil pays is overcrowding, high property prices (relative to other villages), hawkers descending on tourists and trekkers the minute they get out of a taxi which can often descend into a money-grabbing exercise. Some books have called Imlil the "Chamonix of the Atlas". Hopefully it will never get to that stage of development but it certainly has gone past the point of no-return in committing itself to the fortunes of a mountain just out of sight up the valley. Hotels, guides, mule owners, porters, cafés, shops, tourist boutiques, internet facilities - all within a couple of hundred metres from beginning to end. Most hotels on the main strip are building sites at the moment - extensions, new facilities, complete overhauls. 

Amsouzart with the southern approaches to Toubkal in the backgroundAmsouzart on the other hand, whilst visited during the summer months by trekkers doing the "Tour du Toubkal" doesn't even have electricity (although it is coming) - never mind internet cafes and luxury tourist hotels. The "price" the visitor pays is a day's travel on some incredible roads over high mountain passes (Tizi Tichka 2260m) before entering mountain valleys where one counts the passage of time by falling leaves....

Traditional Berber village near Amsouzart ToubkalWe don't pretend that by writing a few lines in a blog, it will change people's habits of using Imlil as the main base for Toubkal.

Neither however can we pretend that it's something that gives people the best mountain experience!

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Welcome to our new-look blog! We've moved from our old Google hosted "blogspot" to hosting it ourselves! So a simpler, cleaner look but hopefully enough to keep you enthused, inspired and educated about the Moroccan High Atlas (as we see it!)

All our old blog articles will eventually be migrated over but in the meantime please feel free to have a read of older items there as well.

Lastly - we don't have any "comments" box for the blog but this doesn't mean we don't welcome them - on the contrary! Just go to our Contact Us page and email us from there with whatever you want to say!


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