Route
Grading
The Alpine Grading system is popular in the European Alps and increasingly in the
Moroccan High Atlas. As with the Scottish winter system, routes are given an overall grade
to describe the difficulty of the route. The overall grade takes into consideration all of the following factors:
- the approach route, length and complexity
- the descent route, method, length and complexity
- the quality and availability of stances
- the quality of rock, snow and ice
- the level of objective danger
- the location of hardest section on the route
- the aspect of slope
- the exposure to weather
It should be noted that as with all grading systems incorporating snow and ice,
the alpine grade can be significantly effected by the weather conditions, not
only during the climb but in the weeks before.
The following table outlines the different alpine grades used (please note there
are no glaciers in Morocco!):
| Overall Grade |
Description |
F Facile
(Easy) |
A straight forward route, possibly describing a glacier approach with
simple scrambling. Any snow or ice will be of an easy angle allowing the
climber to walk up it. |
PD Peu difficile
(not very hard) |
Harder than routes graded F, with more complex glacier routes, harder
scrambling and objective dangers. Routes may also be longer and at
altitude. Snow and ice slopes of up 35-45 degrees may be
encountered. |
AD Assez difficile
(fairly hard) |
More significant slopes of snow and ice will be encountered up to
40-55 degrees. Rock climbing up to grade III may also be encountered but
are unlikely to be sustained |
D Difficile
(hard) |
A more serious undertaking with possibility of rock climbing at around
grade IV & V and snow and ice slopes of up 50-70 degrees. |
TD Tres difficile
(very hard) |
Significant and sustained snow and ice slopes of up 65-80 degrees are
likely encountered. Hard rock climbing is also a possibility at grades V
- VI with some aid routes also a possibility. Routes at this grade are a
serious undertaking with high levels of objective danger. |
ED Extremement difficile
(extremely hard) |
Extremely hard routes with vertical ice slopes likely and rock
climbing at VI to VIII. Aid pitches are also possible with exceptional
objective danger. |
It is quite common for routes to be given a "+" or "-" within the grade to cater
for superior or inferior routes.
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