NE Ridge The actual route takes 1 long day (10+ hours from the
bivy to the summit and back to Neltner refuge). It is necessary to
camp / bivy at Tizi Tagharat (3450m) the night before so quite an
expedition! If you do this route, you can do so in the knowledge
that few parties ever do this in winter....
SW (Ouanoums) Ridge (marked
in red above starting from Tizi Ouanoums with the X) The classic "Alpine" route of
Toubkal. Graded AD and doesn't require any camping! Route time
from leaving Neltner refuge in the very early morning to summit
and back to hut by standard south cwm descent is around 9 hours of
steady moving.
SE
(Ifni Pinnacles) Ridge (marked
in green above starting from Col d'Ifni) Although it is feasible to do this
whilst staying at the Neltner refuge, it involves a long tiring
approach over Tizi Ouanoums. It is easier and far more rewarding
as a mountaineering expedition to approach from the south side
having driven in on a 4x4 to one of the top villages on the south
side such as Tissaldai. Again around a 10 hour day doing the
complete traverse and ending up in the Neltner refuge. Again very
few parties complete this route in winter....
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